A) Exposure to bright sunlight causes wing scales to fade rather dramatically in some species. Keep your collection in proper cases inside a light proof cabinet or drawer. If display cases are mounted on the wall, expect some fading. Choosing a site, outside the sun's direct rays, is a help. You might even consider an attractive cover for the case.
B) As adults, Saturniidae typically live off fats, stored from larval stage. Over time, the fat decomposes and often runs onto the outer body and wings, making a mess. Fortunately most of the fats are stored in the abdomen and there are several approaches you can take to avoid "greasy" moths.
1) Right after killing the moth, use a scalpel or razor blade to separate the abdomen from the thorax. Spread the moth without its abdomen. Allow the detached abdomen and specimen to dry for a week and then use clear silicone cement to reattach the abdomen to the thorax. The fats will still decompose over time, but the dried cement will form a barrier between the "grease" and the thorax, where the wings are attached.
2) Soak the detached abdomen in clear acetone to dissolve away the fats. Use silicone cement to reattach the abdomen once it has dried. See Scott Smith article.
3) Surgically remove the innards from the detached abdomen after slitting the ventral surface. Prefashion a "stuffer" out of single sheets (double ply) toilet tissue. The "stuffer" should be slightly smaller than the moth's abdomen, yet have the same shape. It is very easy to work with damp paper tissue. Allow the tissue to dry thoroughly before using it as a "stuffer". Right after surgical removal of innards from the abdomen, coat the stuffer with white glue and wrap the abdominal skin around it. Reattach the abdomen with clear cement.
C) Dermestids include small beetles, very destructive to organic material of animal origin. They are especially fond of dark, humid environments. Adult beetles are small and oval, have knobbed antennae, and scales or hairs present on their body. The colors of the scales or hairs produces color patterns that varies from species to species.
The larvae (right) have a tapering wedge-shaped body covered with hairs. Larvae of most species have a tuft of hairs at the end of the body. It is thought that carpet beetles evolved to feed on animal hair, fur, hide,and in the balance of nature, help decompose dead animals. Adults feed on pollen and are frequently found on flowers; it is the larvae that feed on the body "fur" and wing scales of Saturniidae. |  |
The larvae are decorated all over with tufts of bristles, which, depending on the species, range from pale blond to jet black. Perhaps this serves as camouflage.
Like many grubs and caterpillars, Dermestid larvae are deeply segmented. You are not likely to see them in action, but they leave behind split-open shed skins which they outgrow and cast in plain sight, sort of as a Dermestid "Kilroy was here." Make that "killjoy was here." These light brown cast skins display the critters' deep segmentation.
It is best to keep moths in tightly sealed containers with paradichlorobenzene moth crystals. Flakes, crystals or "mothballs" containing either paradichlorobenzene (PDB) or naphthalene can help stave off most insect infestations, if used as directed by product label instructions.
Kelly M. Richers writes of another insecticide: Vapona: "I use it in my 200+ drawers in the garage (in Bakersfield, low humidity) successfully by cutting it into 1" by 1" squares, wrapping it in aluminum foil and using push pins to anchor the foil to the wall of the drawer. I then punch several small holes in the foil so the fumes can escape. No dermestid problems if I change every two years. Problems if I do not..."
Be careful how you handle vapona strips. Mark Walker writes: "You gotta cut it up, unfortunately. I use a razor knife and cut it into squares - about a 1/4" square. I've posted here before that after doing so, I always feel a bit light-headed. Could be all in my head, I suppose, but better safe than sorry. I use painters gloves to keep it off my hands."
Jim Taylor writes: "I take the (Vapona) strips out to the garage to my work bench - with all the doors
open - and cut it into cubes with a roofing knife (the kind with a
razor-sharp disposable blade). I then stick headed pins through the
resulting cubes. Back in the house, it is a simple matter to stick the
vapona in a corner of the boxes.
This takes care of the fumes, but you are right in saying the strips are a
bear to cut. Scissors won't do it. I have tried roofing shears, but it was
awkward."
Vapona = Dichlorvos, is used primarily to control household insects such as flies, aphids, spider mites, caterpillars, and thrips. Green Cross puts out Vapona strips and they should be available at most local hardware stores.
I have always preferred shadow boxes as opposed to the cotton filled Riker Mounts, but anything will work as long as you are careful to avoid too much light, leaking fats and dermestids.
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